🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.